KELLY'S GONE AGAIN
…AND HERE'S WHERE I'M AT.Archive for February, 2009
#15. Delhi and Rishikesh: An Introduction to India
(c) 2009 Todd Sykes.
India is a place that tries your patience. It’s no wonder they invented yoga.
The country introduced itself to me on Thursday, around midnight, after I’d landed from Bangkok. Even at the start of that tomorrow, Delhi was absolutely electric. People are everywhere. They’re asking you questions: “Do you know your way, ma’am?” “Miss, taxi, TAXI?” “Where are you from?” “Where is your husband? Have you lost your husband?” “Need good hotel, miss?” My first impression of Delhi is largely formed by the clamor of these eager questions and, in their background, distant bhangra, jingling bangles and, of course, horns. I’ve never, ever, ever heard such loud of frequent car horns… and I do live in NYC.
#14. Pai: The Motorcycle Diaries; Chiang Mai: Goodbye
Yesterday after a breakfast of spicy udon at a local noodle shop, I boarded a 7 a.m., $1.50 local public bus to Pai, a town in the Mae Hong Son province, about 4 hours north of Chiang Mai and about as close to Myanmar as I’m going to get. Some describe the ride as a series of motion sickness-inducing sharp turns all the way up into the mountains, and the payoff is a laid-back, do-nothing-except-drink-coffee-and-hang-out-at-waterfalls sort of place. It’s been described as “hippyish,” and I couldn’t think of a better way to spend my last full day in Thailand.
#13. Lampang: Yoga for Elephants
So I completed my amateur mahout course this afternoon, and it was fantastic. I’d be perfectly happy to have done a longer training, though my thighs and side body are probably happier to be done.
#12. Border Crossing: Laos to Thailand; Lampang: Thai Elephant Conservation Center
Hey friends. So, I started my journey into northern Thailand on Friday. From Luang Prabang, it went like this: slow [cargo] boat up the Mekong to Pak Beng, slow [cargo] boat up the Mekong to Huay Xai, ferry across the Mekong to Chiang Khong, mototaxi to bus station, bus to Chiang Rei, bus to Lampang, mototaxi back to Lampang after missing Lampang bus station, bus towards Chiang Mai with an exit at “Km 37″ road mark, and walk 1/2 mile towards Thai Elephant Conservation Center (TECC). It’s Monday. How was *your* weekend?
#11. Luang Prabang: Love/Love
I reserve the right to change my mind, and though I haven’t totally (overtourism still gets a thumbs down), I’m happy to share some positive news: today, I got out of Disneyland.
A ways down from my guesthouse is a NGO-type organization called Big Brother Mouse (“Mouse”). It’s dedicated to improving both English and Lao language literacy among children. Apparently schools here are good and kids can learn how to read, but there just are not enough books for them to actually do it.
#10. Luang Prabang: Love/Hate
Yesterday I got up at 5:15 a.m. By 6, I was a block away on the main street, sticky rice and bananas in hand, to feed the monks. Locals call this “giving alms.” It is a type of charitable act, and common in Buddhist tradition. There are a lot of monks here, and a lot showed up that morning. They aren’t allowed to look at or speak to women, so it was a relatively quiet process, but still an absolutely awesome one.
#9. Siem Reap: Angkor Temples; Luang Prabang: Morning
Yesterday I woke up at O-dark-thirty (specifically around 4 a.m.) to go out to the Angkor temples by sunrise. It’s said to be a peaceful, magical time there, the world’s largest religious site, and I can confirm that as true.
#8. Siem Reap: Landmines Museum
Most people who know me know that Human Rights Watch holds a special place in my heart. Most people who know HRW knows that its focus on landmines — and the significant role it played in banning them — is one of the organization’s landmark victories. Accordingly, I went to the Landmines Museum in Cambodia, a country largely affected by the indiscriminate weapon.
#6. Battambang: Miscellaneous
Today, on the way back from school, I saw a woman passenger on a motorbike breastfeeding a baby. While it was in fast motion. On the highway.
I don’t really know what to post after seeing that. More this weekend.
#5. Battambang: The First Day of School
I’m covered in red clay. It’s what the schoolroom grounds are made of, and it gets in and on any- and everything. Shoes aren’t allowed in the room, so you spend most of the day barefoot, though the floor is cement and dirty and might as well be the bare ground.
I’ve been sitting a lot, reading to the kids, today. My favorite so far is Riti — he’s an energetic, super-fun kid of 12, who looks about 7 (malnutrition, no doubt). I taught a yoga class to him and the more “unruly” kids this afternoon – the first day of my “Yoga for Young Artists” program I’ve designed for the English School here in Battambang – and they did great. Really great. We sang the Om song, went on a “yoga adventure” to the jungle resulting in lots of animal poses, and sang the Namaste song to close. They don’t speak English, and I don’t speak Khmer, so a teacher translated. The kids had a wonderful time, possibly almost as much as me, even. *smile*
#4. Border Crossing: Thailand to Cambodia
Note: when confirming your alarm setting on your blackberry, also confirm your time setting. I missed my 6 a.m. bus to Cambodia this morning. Brilliant.
It actually wasn’t all that horrible, and worked out in the end — just 3 hours past schedule. Here’s how I got to the end point. From Central Bangkok, I took a taxi to Mo Chit bus station (long), then a bus from said station to Aryana Pathet (loud), where I took a moto-taxi (it’s what you might think) to the visa office, even though I said I already had my visa (drivers get commission for new applicants). Disappointed driver in tow, I then arrived at immigration. Upon approval, I literally walked across the border into Cambodia.
