Hey friends. So, I started my journey into northern Thailand on Friday. From Luang Prabang, it went like this: slow [cargo] boat up the Mekong to Pak Beng, slow [cargo] boat up the Mekong to Huay Xai, ferry across the Mekong to Chiang Khong, mototaxi to bus station, bus to Chiang Rei, bus to Lampang, mototaxi back to Lampang after missing Lampang bus station, bus towards Chiang Mai with an exit at “Km 37″ road mark, and walk 1/2 mile towards Thai Elephant Conservation Center (TECC). It’s Monday. How was *your* weekend?

A few notes here. First, despite the many legs of the trip, it was still fun. I still met a few new people, saw a lot of new sights and had a very adventurous time. The boat, though you can’t take it if you’re on a schedule, was fantastic. You ride this fairly large old cargo boat with wooden benches for 2 days, 10 hours each day (the downside), and see miles and miles and miles of beautiful terrain to the melodic rhythm of the river (upside). Along the way, there are scores of water buffalo, fisherman, women working in fields, and kids having the time of their lives doing flips in the water. I spent half of the time listening to my own music background — blues, jazz, classic rock — and the other half (sorry mom and dad) sitting on the side of the boat, not doing anything except keeping my balance there. For some this would be immensely frustrating, and those people can (and should) fly. But there is something really nice about not anticipating the next immediate appointment — there’s this solid sense of having both time and simplicity, and it is a luxurious counterpart to my New York life.

It’s also worth mentioning that the accommodations in Pak Beng are, in my experience, god-awful and you’re forced to stay there overnight. They say that at some point in “authentic” travel you should have at least one “I almost died” story. And I almost did, in horror, at the sight of my room. It was one of the only ones left by the time we arrived: torn mosquito nets, wooden “mattress,” trash under the bed, blinking flourescent lightbulb with a nice family of bugs, electrical tape was involved… I mean, really. Suffice it to say, I was glad to have a sleepsheet, a sense of humor and a new travel buddy (Mark from the UK, a longtime music productions manager) to joke with.

Finally, there’s the fact that I completely missed the Lampang bus stop. There are a few reasons for this. For one, the trip is supposed to take over 5 hours and we’d only gone just over 3. Plus, every sign was in Thai and this is a major bus stop, which usually have English signs. Regardless, I asked about the bus stop’s ETA about 5 Km too late.  The driver and I got out on the side of the highway, and I realized that he apparently intended for me to find my way back walking or otherwise (alone, near evening, with my luggage), because apparently that’s what they do here.

I’ve never hitchhiked. I absolutely was not about to start in Thailand.

So, we waited together on the other side of the highway until a mototaxi with a free spot drove up. I don’t speak much Thai, but I’m glad that I managed to politely convey that under no uncertain terms would I be finding my way back to the station alone. Always exciting.

As for my current status, I’m at the TECC now and it’s amazingly good fun. My elephant is Platheda. She is patient, great and following directions, but has a mischevious side (apparently she’s pregnant but also has three boyfriends… very social creatures, these guys). I’ve had a day of “mahout” trainings, given two elephant baths, done two tourist shows, fed a ton of bananas, bamboo and flowers, and taken a ride into the mountains to put my girl to bed. If this is any indication, I’m in for an incredible couple of days!

Kid Greetings

Sunset on the Mekong