So I took a little break from India this week and flew into Bhutan, via Kathmandu, on Thursday. Bhutan is famous for its use of “Gross National Happiness” as a measure of national productivity, and when I heard that a few months back I thought, “well, I’ve got to go *there*.”

It was a pretty pleasant flight over the Himalayas. When I wasn’t glued to my window watching the mountains, I was reading one of the national Bhutanese newspapers, which had articles on how the country was actually fixing ills, such as humanely taking care of the stray dog population, and more personal columns like “Do You Have a Good Sense of Humor?” As we touched down into Paro, Drukair [Airlines] played traditional Bhutanese music, something like that which you might hear while Daniel-san gets a lesson from Mr. Miyagi. The stuff works — I was happy already.

In 15 minutes, I was in the care of my travel guide, Tchering, and personal driver, Sanom, en route to Thimpu for Day 1 of my private tour of Western Bhutan. I could get used to this. Tourism is a real business here, not just an industry. There are no FITs (i.e., free independent travelers) permitted; you must pick an agency and let them be your key into every door. And my guys, I’m pleased to report, are good at what they do.

On a personal level, my guides informative, nice, funny, just talkative enough, and just protective enough. They make sure I don’t get hit while taking photographs on the side of the road, monitor my meals for “hygiene,” and interpret unusual art (e.g., penises are often painted on houses to “ward off evil” — now that’s one I haven’t heard before).

On the professional side of things, they’re mad efficient. I’ve done more sightseeing in the last 48 hours than I have in the last 6 weeks — dzongs (temples), various forms of traditional architecture, monasteries, nature preserves, government buildings… I spent time feeding baby deer and checking out the takin (the national animal, part goat, part cow). I turned prayer mandalas, and sat in a temple next to a few of the country’s small population of nuns as they played music and studied ancient manuscripts that had been printed from hand-carved wooden blocks. I hung out at the local vocational school, where the kids showed me unbelievable metal workings, weavings, woodcarvings, sculptures. I can’t carve a toothpick and they’re making buddhas from yak bone and clay. Nice.

The rest of the trip involves a stop at the local market, checking out the national museum housed in a historic watchtower, and a very long, very steep climb to the top of a mountain. To be continued. In the meanwhile, enjoy the view.

View on the way to Thimpu

Prayer Mandala

Student Sculpture