Over the last 3 days, I’ve spent my waking hours as follows: approximately 1/3 on the beach, another 1/3 in a freshwater pool, and the last 1/3 sitting on the side a wooden diving boat riding across the sea, every now and then actually doing the diving, walking along the ocean floor and gently swimming next to sea turtles.

I mean, really?

I’m on the Gili Islands, northwest of Lombok, Indonesia, undergoing a PADI open water diving certification. The Gilis — each with their own distinct personalities — are my substitute for the original island retreat plan, the famed southern Thai islands, Ko Tao, Ko Samui and Ko Pha Ngan. Being here is, in case you might not have guessed, absolutely brilliant.

Now, most people who know me are aware of my fear of the ocean… and especially of sharks. I’m apparently conquering both. It’s hard to stay focused on your fears when it’s this beautiful. And it is unbelievable, unprecedented, beauty.

In fact, the Gilis are certainly the most gorgeous locale of my trip and, quite possibly, the most stunning place I’ve ever seen. Today as we docked the boat, I thought to myself “the water here is like *Evian*.” It is so clear you can see straight to the bottom, equal parts aquamarine and royal blue. The sand is white; the weather is perfection.

I’d write more, but I’m overwhelmed with those two things right now: exquisite diving and divine scenery. Everything else just takes up space.

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Man on Beach