KELLY'S GONE AGAIN

…AND HERE'S WHERE I'M AT.

#51. Paris: My To-Do, -See, -Eat, -Buy List

Well, I’ve finally said goodbye to Paris and, oui, I do miss it a little.  I’ll relive it here by sharing some memories with you in the form of a list, 20-deep of random things to do, see, taste, hear and buy, should you find yourself in the vicinity.  For one reason or another, they helped make my summer pretty splendid.  Take from it what you like and, of course, bon voyage!

  1. Invest in postcards.  Send them early, before you forget. It isn’t always cheap – with stamps, each card costs around 2 euro – but your friends and fam will love you for it.  Consider the more unique, artistic cards as opposed to those of the basic Eiffel Tower variety.
  2. Picnic on a bridge while listening to music from a sidewalk band. Live music is possibly my favorite part of Paris.  Add to that a few friends, a bottle of wine, baguettes, cheese and other goodies, and you’ve got a perfect little party.  Many of Paris’ wooden bridges offer a great setting – take advantage.
  3. Lay in the sun at Jardin des Luxembourg. A palace, flower gardens, manicured lawns and a couple of grassy areas for hanging out.  Luscious.
  4. Eat croissants often. If you’re up early, you might get them still warm from your nearest boulangerie.  The French aren’t big on breakfast, so an espresso and a croissant are usually the order of the morning.  Join the club.
  5. Watch the sun set over Notre Dame. Though I walked by this magnificent cathedral daily, I never got tired of it – the architecture is just that awesome.  Opposite the garden there’s a bridge with stairs leading down to a cobblestone walking path along the Seine – take a seat on the steps or side thereof and watch the sky turn from hazy, citrus-toned hues before going navy.
  6. Make a few local friends. I met some fantastic friends in Paris.  But honestly, my total experience confirms for me the stereotype: the French aren’t always the most inclusive to strangers (though I think that if Americans, for instance, spent more time learning other languages, like French, it would help matters).  It doesn’t mean you can’t find friends, though, and I suggest that – if you’re going to be there a while – you do.
  7. Celebrate Bastille Day. If you’re around on 14 July, get together with said French friends and a place to watch the fireworks explode over the Champs-Elysees.  Big parties usually take place the night before.  Double bonus.
  8. Peruse (and possibly buy) junk at the Puces. Le marche aux Puces de Saint-Ouen,” or “the Puces” for short, is the most famous flea market around (and if you missed my feelings on markets, check Post #42 on Nice).  You’ll find a collection of established little shops full of the usual – vintage clothes, jewelry, antiques, etc. – both outdoors and indoors (though outside will usually yield the best stuff).  Be prepared to negotiate (preferably in French) for the best prices.
  9. Buy produce outside. The peaches in Paris.  Oh. My. God.  First, I thought I’d hit the good life when I’d tried the velvety strawberries, after which I realized I hadn’t lived until I’d tried the apricots.  And then, there were peaches.  Find your local produce market and thank me later.
  10. Do the Eiffel Tower et al thing. Thought I wasn’t going there, huh?  Especially if you’re new to the area, just do it – spend a day or two doing the tourist stuff.   With your own eyes, see the Eiffel Tower, Les Invalides, the Opera House, St. Chapelle, the Pompidou center, Sacre Coeur and Montmarte, the Arc de Triomphe and, of course, the Louvre (the courtyard of which makes a nice little reading spot, by the way).
  11. Volunteer at the American Cathedral. Now you knew I was going there.  I honestly didn’t plan on community service, but couldn’t resist.  Opportunities didn’t jump into my lap while I was in Paris (especially since I don’t speak French), but the American Cathedral runs a soup kitchen every Friday afternoon at 12:00 p.m.  Show up early to volunteer, helping with cooking, food runs, setting tables, serving, socializing/greeting and clean-up.  I met great people all around and highly recommend it as the perfect low-commitment way to give to your temporary surrounding community! See http://www.americancathedral.org/en/missout/lunches.html for details.
  12. Eat at L’As du Falafel in Le Marais. My friend, Sarah, who was born and raised in Paris, introduced me to this spot.  It’s now apparently all the rage after getting a thumbs-up from Lenny Kravitz, and the queue is generally always there to prove it.  Buy a ticket inside (végétarian piquant, for me) and take your place in line.  It’s worth it.
  13. Walk around constantly. The greatest.  Some of the streets are magical winding mysteries that beg exploring.  Get a tourist map from your local Metro, wear comfortable shoes (Birkenstocks yes, Crocs, no – we’re just building our rep back as a nation, after all), and get lost in a new arrondissement every day.  Stroll casually along the Seine or follow a determined route to a final destination.  Whatever you do, get moving.  It’ll make you feel better about #14.
  14. Indulge in Eric Kayser’s chocolate chip cookies. Without doubt, my favorite boulangerie in Paris the world, for this sole reason.  I’d been craving classic American-style chocolate chip cookies for weeks and finally found them randomly amongst les tartes des fruits rouges and les pains aux raisins in the Eric Kayser Artisan Boulangerie very near my flat.  I can say with great certainty that they are the best that I’ve ever had (and I’ve had a lot in my day).  Upon the first bite I stared at them with wonder, admiration, and just the least bit of jealously, further realizing with every morsel that I might as well just give up and throw out my apron.  
  15. Take a day trip to Belgium. See Post #50.
  16. Watch the Tour de France ride past you. No doubt about it, being a part of Stage 21 is very exciting, especially for tourists.  This year the Tour rode right past Notre Dame before heading to the final victory run along beautiful Champs-Élysées.  Great crowd, great fun.
  17. Dine and drink at fancy and/or fun establishments. Okay I admit, I didn’t do a lot of this, opting instead for more hole-in-the-wall places – but for those of you who can, do!  For suggetions, check out a couple of my favorite food blogs, Luxeat (see http://www.luxeat.com/my_weblog/paris_restaurantsfood/),  and David Lebovitz (see http://www.davidlebovitz.com/).  For drinks, try on Saut de Loup and Le Baron Bouge.
  18. Watch outdoor films at Le Festival de Cinema at Parc de la Villette. Outdoor films every night on a big screen while you picnic.  One of my all-time summer favorite activities in NYC, also in Paris.
  19. Check out a yoga class. Yoga’s becoming a pretty serious biz in the City of Lights.  In addition to walking, it’s another way to work off those cookies (and croissants, etc.).  I invested in classes at Rasa in the Latin Quarter; they’re a hefty 20 euro each there if you don’t buy a pass, but the teachers are well-trained, mat rental is free and they offer some classes in English.
  20. Remember that you’re there. Guilty:  I am absolutely one of those people who’s gives in to that “je ne sais quoi” Parisian cliché.  I do understand why some aren’t enamored, though – there’s the smoking, for instance, and you might wonder how you possibly just spent 5 euro on a café crème, or 50 on a cab, or 250 on dinner.  But at the end of the day, you’re still there.  It is still stunning to see, with its gray stone and gold sparkle, and softly-lit cobblestone city streets perfect for evening walks.  Paris is vintage; the kind of city that, were it a woman, might carry monogrammed kerchiefs and wear proper lace-gartered stockings, though you’d probably be unaware of either.  It’s fluid, almost dancing around you, a pure enchantment.  Just relax and let it lead.  My guess is you’ll like where you end up.
Invalides Bridge

Invalides Bridge

Garden at Random

Garden at Random

Le Tour

Le Tour

Sunset over the Seine

Sunset over the Seine

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