Over the last 3 days, I’ve spent my waking hours as follows: approximately 1/3 on the beach, another 1/3 in a freshwater pool, and the last 1/3 sitting on the side a wooden diving boat riding across the sea, every now and then actually doing the diving, walking along the ocean floor and gently swimming next to sea turtles.

I mean, really?

I’m on the Gili Islands, northwest of Lombok, Indonesia, undergoing a PADI open water diving certification. The Gilis — each with their own distinct personalities — are my substitute for the original island retreat plan, the famed southern Thai islands, Ko Tao, Ko Samui and Ko Pha Ngan. Being here is, in case you might not have guessed, absolutely brilliant.

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